Friday, August 20, 2010

Boutique Timbers: Australian Red Cedar & Huon Pine

Last weekend I made it up to see Mal Ward of Boutique Timbers. After working through a few stacks of Australian Red Cedar (Toona Ciliata) and Huon Pine (Lagarostrobos franklini) I loaded up the trailer with a fine selection of prized Australian Timbers.

Incidentally this caused a bit of controversy over at the Woodwork Forums see Timber Gloat.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Dining Table Benches

Benches are a practical solution to dinning table seating. They allow for a flexible number of people and they introduce a communal atmosphere. (Not to mention they are easier and faster to make.) The 2008 build had benches without backs. The owner of the table told be it was the only thing he would change. Taking his advise I've decided on a design with backs. 

This should be quite a practical solution. These benches 2m x 30cm x 4cm will have three legs made of 40mm mrytle. The back will be fiddleback and position to support the lower back only (77cm tall in total.) The inspiration pictures have a support piece underneath. (I however have run out of timber... but what I am using is thicker...)

The Shaker's where a protestant sect which is most commonly remembered for thier distinctive furniture style. Fairly unknown in Australia, but shaker style furniture is one of the most popular styles in American hand made furniture. I've taken inspiration from their simple but practical design solutions.

These examples are taken from the Popular Woodworking Sketchup Warehouse.

Friday, August 6, 2010

Sneak Peak: The table top after a coat of oil...

Flattening the top by hand with a Stanley no 7 resulted in some mild tear out. Switching to abrasives, I used a belt sander (120grit) and a random orbit sander (120 to 1200 grit.) At around 600 grit I coated the top with a diluted coat of UBeaut White Shellac which acts as a pore sealer and allows the oil to penetrate more easily. The oil of choice for this job is Organoil Hard Bunishing Oil which is a tung oil based product (see Stu's Shed.) Only a thin coat is needed, the excess rubbed off at 30min, and then with micromesh or wet dry sanded moist at 1500 grit. Another thin coat, and burnishing to 3200 is the plan.

Prior to this a trimmer router with a 1/8" CMT bit rounded the edges, and a saw/rasp/sand paper rounded the corners to 20c piece radius.

The timber is fiddleback Tasmanian Myrtle (Nothofagus cunninghamii) from Boutique Timbers with Ebony dowel (Diospyros sp.) from Trend Timbers.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Breadboards: Part 4 - Putting it all together...

Dowel Design
The long tenons received elongated slots formed by drill, coping saw, and rasp. The outside tenons including the slot are waxed. With the dowels glued to the top and bottom of the breadboard the dowels can slide in the slot uninhibited.

The Glue Up
Only the dowels and the mid section receive glue. I used rachet straps to ensure everything was tight before starting. The center dowel also acts as a drawbored joint.

The Joint Explained: Exploded View
For that wanted to see the inside of the outside mortise/tenon joint here's your chance. The dowel was not aligned with the bottom hole, a few firm wacks with the hammer, and there you go, the inside of the joint. Notice how there's space to allow for wood expansion. The repair is not too obvious. 

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